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| Illogan: a community in charge |
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Laurence James uncovers the village that puts the life in village life. To many people, Illogan is probably only known as the neighbour of the former Tehidy Hospital.  Illogan Church Over the last century, many people must have travelled past the village on their way to this former home of the Bassetts as either patient or visitor to the sanatorium or the later Cornwall Stroke and Rehabilitation Unit and Cornwall Mobility Centre. Few of these people would have felt inclined to stop and linger, but had they done so they would have met with a community of much interest. The Illogan of the 21st century is a microcosm of the palimpsest that is Cornwall. It mirrors the Duchy’s development from an agricultural, rural environment of the pre-industrial era through the prosperity and expansion of the Georgian and Victorian times and the challenges presented by the demise of those once mighty industries. Evidence of Illogan’s evolution is obvious to even the most casual of observers, not just the urban archaeologist seeking out the obscure and hidden clues to historical transformation. These strident signposts to Illogan’s development are what make this village different - along with its size. “There are many large villages,” you’re probably thinking right now and you would be right. However, Illogan is large in quite a different way to all those other villages which have their small historic heart surrounded by consecutive rings of later development and clusters of modern houses, colonising the empty plots and redundant gardens. Illogan’s institutions are widespread and at opposite ends of the village. Most villages have their church and pub next to each other; here they are about a mile apart. The road in between them has houses on just the one side, no modern infill here, these handsome, well-built, granite houses are all over a century old. This development may not be modern but infill most definitely is. This row of identical semis was built in the reign of Victoria for the occupation of the upper echelons of the industrial workforce. Although Illogan has its modern developments, it expanded extensively in the past. Opposite these homes is Maningham Wood, a large expanse of cultivated woodland and shrubbery punctuated by just the rectory and an ornate doctor’s surgery, owing its stained glass windows and other embellishments to its former incarnation as a church hall. The rectory was constructed in the 1950s as a replacement for the rather grand near mansion for whose adornment the woodland was originally created. Winding through this shrubbery is an alternative, traffic-free route between the church and the area known as the Platt where stands the village pub, The Robartes’ Arms. This is the path of the driveway to the old rectory, now called Maningham. This area has recently been restored as community woodland. It makes a pleasing thoroughfare for cyclists and some of the 220 children on their way to and from the village school - although they no doubt enjoy the return journey better then the outward. On the day I was here, the air was heavy with the perfume of the wild garlic flowers and the floor was a haze of violet, covered with bluebells. The old rectory was originally built in 1783 for the brother of Lord de Dunstanvillle of nearby Tehidy, Rev John Bassett, a relic of the times when the local grandee would have control over a church living or two and reserve the most lucrative for his younger son. It, too, is now in the process of being restored and redeveloped, a prime example of Illogan’s abundant capacity for re-cycling its buildings. It seems almost everywhere you look in this village there is a building being put to a new use, different from its original purpose. Among these, there is the 1881 building that is now the village hall attesting to its former incarnation as it still bears the legend Girls Board School on its gable. There is the former boys' school, also bearing its redundant title, which is now flats having been converted in the 1970s. Another conversion in the 1970s was the creation of the Illogan Well-Being Centre in the Old Schoolhouse. This is where people now come when they want to practice yoga, or aromatherapy or other esoteric innovations. Illogan is not a place that is afraid of the new. Perhaps it is no coincidence that Richard Trevithick, the creator of the Industrial Revolution, was born here, at Tregajorran on April 13, 1771. This village has another Cornish luminary in its roll-call, namely the late Thomas Merritt whose carols and anthems still resound in Cornish throats around the world. Next year sees the centenary of his early death at the age of 46. Largely self-taught, one of his marches was played at the Coronation of Edward VII in 1902. However, such success did not translate financially. Although his grave is not in a prominent position in the churchyard, it is easy to find thanks to signposts pointing the way. Illogan’s rich musical vein still thrives today: there is the respected violinist, Jonathon Howles; John Hitchens, leader of Helston Band; Mrs Agnes Jane, a Bard of the Cornish Gorsedd, the accompanist for Holman Climax Male Voice Choir and her daughter Alison, a talented singer and Alistair Taylor, musical director for Redruth operatic and Four Lanes Male Voice Choir. As Illogan is a microcosm for Cornwall, so is the churchyard for Illogan. There have been at least three churches on this site dedicated to Saint Illogan - a Celtic personal name found both in Cornwall and Brittany, and Illogan is the name of a Celtic saint known both in Montgomeryshire and Brittany. The current church dates from 1844 – owing to the previous one which was built around 1500 being dilapidated and too small to accommodate the expanding population . All traces of the first church have been erased however many remain of the second. Trinity House refused permission for the demolition of the ancient bell-tower as it was a landmark for sea traffic and this now stands alone, surrounded by greenery and tombs. There was a plan to build a new tower but that never came to fruition and so this tower survived. The graveyard – a large one of 5 ¾ acres - has two distinct personalities. The military war graves are immaculately manicured like the proverbial billiard table, while the rest of the graveyard is left to nature and glows with billowing clouds of wild flowers. As well as the bell-tower, the floor plan, indeed the floor of the original church can still be seen. Standing here above the old crypt but now open to the elements is the monument to the Bassetts. Many of the other monuments to individual Bassetts were transferred to the new church. The bells are now rung by an automatic system which reduces wear and tear and extends their life. Ancient slate tablets inscribed with the Ten Commandments once adorned the old church and these now have pride of place in the Victorian church. Several of the richly-carved pew doors were recycled and converted into chair backs. Two such stand in the sanctuary and there is another one in the Royal Cornwall museum, depicting a man with a lace-edged ruff dated 1627. Another treasure of this handsome building is the enormous letter from Charles I which dominates one wall and acknowledges Illogan’s contribution in the civil war. It would be a mistake to assume the church is all about the past however. An appeal has just been launched - Raise the Roof – by Bishop Bill with the aim of generating £200,000 for roof repairs. In recent years, a mezzanine has been put in to accommodate a snooker table and a partition has been constructed at the rear of the building in order to provide a separate space with tables for tea and coffee after services. This is also where the Friday afternoon teas take place now. These teas are now a village institution, the ladies of the parish have been organising them for a total of 18 years. For a donation, a hot drink and homemade cakes can be enjoyed along with a friendly chat and a warm welcome. Huge boxes of seasonal, Cornish vegetables have also recently become available for just £4 on these afternoons - delivered and distributed by Healthy Boxes employee Hugh Lucas. The church is not the only place that is thriving: the Methodist Chapel has a successful luncheon club and also hosts line dancing weekly. On Tuesdays there is a popular market solely for Cornish produce which was originally launched by the WI. Another popular institution is the village pub. This was taken over just several months ago by new landlord, Spencer Hassell. This looks to be going strong with regular quiz nights on Thursdays and good food available from an appealing menu with plans for further expansion. No doubt this will go down well with both locals and summer visitors to the two caravan sites which Illogan boasts. On a healthier note, Illogan has both a popular rugby club and a football club. Like so many places, change and the passing of time has meant many losses to Illogan. Some businesses, like the post office, have moved around and reopened in new locations, others have gone for good. The future is never secure - struggle and hard work along with support from the community are always essential. Yet, Illogan still cherishes those firms that remain, such as Cousin Jack’s Fish and Chip Shop, the hairdressers’ and the neighbouring Chinese takeaway, just as it keeps hold of its community spirit and the village institutions which it holds dear. |