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| Gunnislake: life on the edge |
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Kath Morgan travels to the border and is enchanted by what she discovers. Heading north up the A390, the road climbs steadily as patchwork fields of rich green spread out besides you. This is Cornwall's undiscovered Far East. Plymouth Sound is visible off to the right and as you near Gunnislake, its houses clinging to the sides of the Tamar Valley, the road starts to drop. A rush of trees replaces the pastoral outlook.  A view down the Tamar Valley from Gunnislake. The impression is of hurtling down through an Alpine forest so steep it makes your ears pop. Dropping down into the village, the road is lined by colourful stone cottages whose chimneys pepper the winter air with the aroma of wood-smoke, before it flattens out into Fore Street and the main thoroughfare. A few hundred yards further on, the road dips further and Cornwall ends at the far edge of the village where you cross the River Tamar into Devon. Approaching from the Devon side, you understand why Gunnislake is known as the first village in Cornwall. You also understand why it sits in a designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. What you may fail to understand is why you haven't been here before. Gunnislake is part of the Tamar Valley site which has been granted World Heritage Status because of the importance of its industrial past. In the 19th century, the Tamar Valley was the world's most important producer of copper. The area boomed in Victorian times, peaking in 1862, when more than 7,000 people were employed in the mines there. Gunnislake owes its existence today to that era. All of the shops, houses and churches were built to cater to the practical and spiritual needs of the miners. A visible reminder of the area's mining past sits in the middle of the village. The statue of 'William' the miner is a tribute to the courage and endurance of all those Tamar Valley families who worked in and around the mines. He is named after John Williams of Scorrier, who owned so much of Gunnislake in the 19th century that it became nicknamed 'Williams Town'. Dorothy Kirk, a long-time resident says: “It's hard to remember what a scene of industry this was. These industrial relics don't stand bleakly on the hillside. They are there, but they are hidden and they rear up mysteriously out of the trees.” Clitter's Mine was housed in Clitter's Wood, which is awash with the smell of garlic and bright with daffodils. It is an enchanting experience for the walker and history buff alike. Gunnislake forms part of the Tamar Valley Discovery Trail, a new 30 mile route between Plymouth and Launceston. Today around 2,000 people live in the village, and while shops are still closing and the bank recently shut its doors, this remains a viable community. “We are lucky,” says Dorothy. “We've got a wonderful health centre, a primary and pre- school, a church, four pubs, a post office, a public hall and a social club. We've got a super butchers' shop; people come from miles around to buy their meat from there. The convenience store is run by a couple of young graduates, who are innovative and sell a wide range of goods now. We don't have to leave the village. People can actually live here.” Until the late 19th century and the introduction of the railway, the river was the main form of transport for moving things in and out of the area. New Bridge, an even-arched road bridge built in 1520 by Sir Piers Edgcumbe, continues to be one of the major routes into the Duchy. It was the centre of a battle during the Civil War, and before the building of the Saltash Bridge in 1961 was the first river crossing upstream of Plymouth. These days Gunnislake is easily accessible by boat, rail and road, making it a great place to live in or to base yourself when visiting the area. Nearby attractions include Cotehele House, Morwellham Victorian Living Museum and a Donkey Park. The ancient stannary town of Tavistock is only a few miles away, and Plymouth takes a mere 45 minutes on the train. There are lots of community activities and clubs, including an active U3A club (for the uninitiated that means University of the Third Age - those aged 50 plus). “They run it as a co-operative. It's a real community,” says Dorothy. There is even a community bus, staffed entirely by volunteers. Wandering around the streets of Gunnislake, people seem to have the time and inclination to chat, and that feeling of community is tangible. As with all Cornish villages, sustainability is a challenge. Bob Hughes, the landlord of The Tavistock Arms Hotel, says: “I love living in the village. Everywhere you look is green trees, but when we first came here you couldn't get lunch anywhere, not even a cream-tea.” His pub serves a wide menu all day, but like the other pubs in Gunnislake, it's often empty at lunchtimes. “We get some tourists, and regulars from across the bridge, but we could do with a few more,” he adds. His son Michael says: “People come through heading for Cornwall, and they don't think they've arrived until they reach St Ives. I feel like putting up a sign saying: Wait, Look, This is Cornwall, you are already here.” It's not just the tourists who are guilty of overlooking Gunnislake. The Oasis Centre, a facility to help the local unemployed find jobs and develop skills, is under ongoing threat of closure. Jane Uglow, the centre coordinator, says: “It's like Cornwall has forgotten we're here. We're doing all the things they tell us rural communities should be doing, but no-one out there wants to help us.” Funding is currently in place until the summer, after which the future is again uncertain. “We are open to ideas, such as office sharing, or company sponsorship. We'll find a way. We always do,” said Jane. It was an indication of the dedication of the staff that the office, which is listed as shutting at 4.30pm was still open after 5pm and nobody seemed in a hurry to close the doors. Despite their proximity to Devon, or perhaps because of it, the residents of Gunnislake are staunchly proud of being Cornish, and to emphasise that you have arrived, as you come over the bridge the first thing you are greeted by is Cormoran the Cornish Giant. The Gunnislake annual festival includes events such as the scarecrow competition, a talk on local history, an open art exhibition, music and a fancy dress parade. This year the festival takes place from August 1 to 4 and everyone is welcome. This is a surprising and charming village, with a rich history, strong if somewhat struggling inhabitants, and an old-fashioned community spirit which is refreshing, endearing and enduring. As your car climbs back up the hill, through wood-smoke blending in with the early evening mist, you may find yourself wishing you were staying just a little while longer. BOX OUTS Facts: The Cornish name for Gunnislake is Lynngonna. Gunnislake is twinned with St Thuriau in Brittany. The weir at Gunnislake is the junction between fresh and salt water, making the end of the tidal river. Gunnislake is the largest village within the Calstock Parish. Fishermen have been coming here for the salmon since medieval times. The mine shaft at Skinner's is 276 fathoms and is one of the deepest in the Tamar Valley. The mine forms parts of the estate of the Duke of Cornwall. Arsenic was produced at Gunnislake until at least 1930. Chimney Rock, perched on a hillside, was reckoned to claim a life a year, through suicide. Mr William Jeffery Ware, born in Gunnislake in 1889, went down with the Titanic aged 23. JMW Turner: Turner visited Gunnislake in 1813. The Turner Trail is a project which details Turner's paintings and sketches of Gunnislake and the surrounding area. Turner's painting Crossing the Bridge was often wrote about as an imaginary Italian place, but locals Dorothy Kirk and Diana Cook persuaded the Tate England to change the description to say Gunnislake. Getting there: By road: it couldn't be easier, as the A390 runs through the centre of the village. To encourage you to stop, parking is free and plentiful. By air: the nearest airport is Plymouth, but Exeter is only one hour away. By boat: pleasure boats from Plymouth travel up as far as Weir Head. By rail: a 14 mile line runs to Plymouth and offers wonderful views of the Tamar Valley. The Tamar Valley Line runs a Real Ale Trail from Plymouth to Gunnislake. All four pubs in the village take part. Be warned completing the trail requires a degree of stamina. |