| St Germans - a forgotten corner of Cornwall |
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St Germans is a quiet, beautiful place on the the River Tiddy, part of the Lynher which joins the Tamar downriver from Saltash. It has been officially labelled an area of outstanding natural beauty while the surrounding estuary has been designated a site of special scientific interest. It’s often called the forgotten corner of Cornwall. Some residents I spoke to were rather glad that it is as it has remained a village with a strong community feeling and identity. “It’s a bit of a different world - we don’t get huge crowds of people, it’s just local. A lot of people move in and say they don’t want to live anywhere else, it’s safe,” says a local woman sitting in the pub who has lived here 24 years. Mentioned in the Doomsday Book this picturesque hidden spot was originally a fishing village. Walks by the river, views of sailing boats around the quay and under the viaduct, a friendly pub and some unique accommodation in refurbished railway carriages at the station makes it a great place to visit for a few hours, a day or longer. St Germans was an estate village and Port Eliot House and estate still plays a significant role in the village’s life and character. Although the house and grounds are only open to the public during one of their events such as the recent Port Eliot Litfest, it can be seen from the road, especially the impressive Tudor gateway. Port Eliot Estate Port Eliot house is the family home of the present Earl of St Germans but has been inhabited since the 5/6th century. It’s a stunning grade I listed house built on the site of a 10th century priory, right next to the church. The Priory of Augustinian Canons abandoned it during the dissolution of the monasteries in the 16th century. According to the Port Eliot estate, the King had the priory stripped of everything of value and sold the remains as a private residence to John Champernowne, a Devon squire in 1540. The estate was taken over by his son Henry Champernowne, of Modbury. Champernowne later sold it to John Eliot, a gentleman of St Germans, in 1564. The property is still owned and lived in by the same family. Edward Eliot was raised to the peerage in 1784. The parkland surrounding Port Eliot has been “improved” by the landscapist Humphrey Repton and the architect Sir John Soane. Port Eliot estate used to employ many local people but a tenant farmer manages the farm now and there are less house staff needed in the 21st Century. Although many residents now commute to Plymouth to work, Joan Ball is typical of the older families’ connections to the village and estate. Her father was employed as shepherd at Port Eliot so the family moved to the village 70 years ago. She then started to work in Port Eliot house as a kitchen maid during the war and ended up living in a wing of the house for 28 years before moving back into the village. The Village Port Eliot doesn’t own the whole village any more but a significant proportion of families still rent their houses from the estate. The older part of the village is virtually unspoilt and is a conservation area. Sixteenth century almshouses offer older locals cheap rent…and close proximity to the pub! One older resident remembers that the estate had to sell off some of the houses once required by law to fit inside bathrooms and toilets. The cost to renovate all the properties was too high when the rent was only half a crown a week. Joan remembers that some local people took that opportunity to buy their houses for around £500. Another resident believes that people are vetted before being allowed to rent out accommodation owned by the estate and that cottages tended to go to people with work or family in the village, which he believed had helped keep the village together. This close connection with the estate sounds feudal but it means that despite its beauty there aren’t many holiday homes, locals guessed at a maximum of half a dozen if that. There’s a mix of ages, a thriving school and residents really do feel that their children or grandchildren are safe to knock on any door if they need any help, as everyone knows each other. The Quay Judging by the amount of boats moored by the quay, sailing is a popular local activity. There’s a short gentle walk going towards the quay (involving some small steps) leading from Old Quay Lane. Wander past the estate’s Battery Lodge and peek at the cannon in the garden and take in the incredible views along the river. You can potter underneath the viaduct to the Victorian quay. It was a busy working quay in the last century with cargoes of minerals, coal, timber and limestone. The trade in roadstone continued until World War II but its business is leisure and quiet pleasure now. Chapel and church There’s a Methodist chapel in the village but this is dwarfed somewhat by the huge Norman church. From the road you look down on the church as it is set in a hollow with the Port Eliot House tucked protectively behind. It has two towers (from the 13th and 15th centuries) and an incredible Norman doorway built of stone from Tartan Down quarry at Landrake, 4 miles away. The scale of the church seems rather surprising in such a small place even if it is the largest parish in Cornwall. It is believed that St Germans Church takes its name from St Germanus, who was Bishop of Auxerre from 380 to 448. The Pub The Eliot Arms is in the centre of the old part of the village with seating in or outside. The landlady was busy cooking fresh food when I visited and the atmosphere is warm and friendly. It’s very popular with local people who sometimes even pick up their roast Sunday lunch from the pub and take it home. Children are welcome. Other features • A well-stocked shop and post office right next to the pub. • A play ground for children and a small football pitch. • Bake fishing lakes are 2 miles away, tuition and equipment are available. • Beaches nearby: Portwrinkle (a little cove), Looe (ancient fishing harbour and seaside town), Freathy and Tregantle. • Walks – the one around the quay already mentioned and various other footpaths, some of which cross the estate or go through natural woodland. You will need an ordinance survey map which shows where the footpaths start. SCOTT – THIS COULD BE A QUOTE A local at the pub who has lived in the village almost 20 years says: “You get all you want from a village in St. Germans…and a little bit more!” Accomodation Apart from being able to stay at the pub, a thrilling way to spend a break would be in a converted, romantic railway carriage! There are 2 carriages in St Germans - one was a travelling post office, the other an old luggage van. Of course the renovation has kept the character and elegance but has added all the mod cons! How to get there. The turning to St. Germans is off the A38 between Liskeard and Saltash. It’s a 2-mile drive along the B3249 and a welcome break before heading into Plymouth (10 miles East). There is a railway station in St Germans. Rail or car is the best way to get there as the bus connection is poor. Further Info The Eliot Arms – call: 01503 232733 online: www.eliotarms.co.uk Railholidays accommodation – call: 01503 230783 online: www.railholiday.co.uk Transport - call: Wessex Trains 0870 900 2318 or National Rail Enquries 08457 484950 online: www.nationalrail.co.uk or for car journeys www.theaa.com Bake Fishing Lakes - call: 01752 849027 online: www.bakelakes.co.uk Port Eliot House – online: www.cornwall-calling.co.uk/houses/port-eliot Port Eliot Litfest – online: www.porteliotlitfest.com St. Germans Parish Church- call: 01503 230690 online: www.stgermansparishes.com St Germans Methodist Chapel - call: 01503 230871 |