| Captivating Charlestown |
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Peter Stephens explores a Cornish port that has kept its charm as well as changing with the times. When Charles Rashleigh’s entrepreneurial gaze fell on the area around the St Austell Bay, the Industrial Revolution was already leaving indelible scars on Cornwall.  In 1746, the Quaker chemist William Cookworthy had discovered deposits of China clay at Tregonning Hill and by the end of the 18th century ever increasing quantities of clay, tin and copper were being exported from Cornwall. In 1784, as part of a larger land purchase, Rashleigh acquired West Polmear, a small community with nine residents whose main source of income came from fishing. Rashleigh and two other local, wealthy landowners, Sir Christopher Hawkins and Joseph Treffry, had all realised that in order to maximise the potential of Cornwall’s rapidly growing mineral industry, the Duchy needed improved port facilities. So while Hawkins and Treffry set about building Par and Pentewan, Rashleigh employed John Smeaton, one of the country’s leading civil engineers, to draw-up plans for a new port at West Polmear. Construction work started in 1792 and the protective outer quay was one of the first structures to be completed. Rashleigh even had a cliff-top gun battery constructed to protect the new port, and this was also used as lookout point from where a Huer could watch for shoals of fish and alert local fisherman to their arrival by raising a ‘hue and cry’. Despite that fact that Smeaton died soon after the project began, work continued apace and by the turn of the century the little village of West Polmear had been transformed into a classic example of a ‘Georgian New Town’. Initially it was named Charles’ Town, in honour of its benefactor, but later in the 19th century this was eventually shortened to Charlestown. In 1825, ownership of Charlestown passed from the Rashleighs to the Crowder family, who were responsible for the construction of much of the port’s infrastructure that is still visible today, and for the rest of the 19th century the community continued to grow. St Paul’s Church was completed in 1851, but because of a shortage of finances, it was left without a spire until 1972, when thanks to a successful fund raising effort, a fibreglass pinnacle was finally fitted. The Rashleigh Arms was also opened in 1851 and 155 years later still stands as a proud memorial to the port’s founding father. During the 19th century the export of China clay, locally mined minerals and pilchard fishing were all important parts of Charlestown’s economy, and in 1847 alone some 122,000,000 fish were shipped out of the busy port. Yet towards the end of the century pilchard catches were beginning to decrease, and in 1884 the smelting house, which had first opened in 1834, closed as Cornish tin and copper mines slipped into the final stage of their eventual demise. Nevertheless, despite one or two set backs early in the 20th century, the demand for Cornish China clay continued to grow and it was probably the survival of this part of Charlestown’s industrial heritage that saved the port from economic disaster. Each day, the Charlestown Estate Bell, which hung by the weighbridge, announced the beginning and end of the working day. It also alerted the community to the imminent arrival or departure of ships, and workers were paid the then not inconsiderable sum of five shillings for opening and closing the dock gates. Just before the beginning of the Second World War the Charlestown Bell disappeared but, happily, was eventually rediscovered in the Old Mill House on Charlestown Road. During the last years of the 19th century, Charlestown was hit by a number of natural disasters but luckily, for all concerned, managed to keep its head above water. Firstly, the port was closed and cut-off by the ‘great blizzard’ that swept across Cornwall in 1891. Then in 1892 part of the harbour was washed away in a severe storm, and the following year, the beach on the east side of the harbour entrance was engulfed by a huge rock slide. In the 1920s, the village benefited from the installation of gas street lighting and a tarmac surface being laid on Charlestown Road. Then, a few years later, the port was used to fit out mine sweepers during the Second World War and, in 1940, had the dubious honour of becoming the first place in Cornwall to suffer bomb damage, courtesy of the Luftwaffe. Having coped with the economic and political upheavals of the first half of the 20th century, by the 1970s Charlestown was slipping effortlessly into the new era of tourism that was slowly engulfing Cornwall. The Shipwreck and Heritage Centre opened in 1976 and, over the last 30 years, has not only been enlarged, but has also become one the most popular tourist attractions in the area. The present owners, John and Rita Kneale, purchased the centre in 1992, and today are the proud curators of the largest private collection of its type on public display in Europe. Open from the beginning of March until the end of October, the Shipwreck and Heritage Centre boasts a huge collection of fascinating exhibits but, according to Rita Kneale, the Titanic exhibition is still the most popular. Although not true born-and-bred ‘Charlestownians’, since they moved to the village, the Kneales have come to love Charlestown and appreciate the importance of tourists to the area. They are only too aware that Cornwall faces some difficult decisions in the next few years, but are very optimistic about what the future holds for Charlestown. “Charlestown and the Luxulyan Valley were awarded World Heritage Status in 2006 and, ultimately, that can only be good for the area,” Rita said. In fact, ‘heritage’ is something that oozes out of every nook and cranny in Charlestown’s unique, 19th century infrastructure. The village’s traditional cottages and houses are some of the finest of their type to be found anywhere in Cornwall and the old bollards, cobbles and mooring rings around the harbour just beg to be touched by anyone that sees them. In 1993, the port was purchased by Square Sail Shipyard Ltd and, as a result, it’s unusual not to find at least one of their beautiful tall ships moored in the harbour. With a local staff of up to 55, Square Sail is probably Charlestown’s largest employer and when I spoke to the company’s managing director, Robin Davies, he expressed his personal hopes and concerns for the port’s future. “One of the biggest and most immediate problems facing Charlestown is climate change,” he told me. “The evidence is clear to see. High tides and storms are all leaving their mark on the area and, unless urgent action is taken, Charlestown will be irreparably damaged.” As I chatted to him, it quickly became obvious that Robin Davies is someone with strong opinions and a heartfelt concern for Charlestown’s wellbeing. He went on to explain the need for an additional outer sea wall which would not only protect the historic harbour from further damage by the elements but could also be used to create a marina, which would inevitably bring much needed, extra business to the area. Charlestown’s unspoilt 19th century charm means that it has become an ideal setting for films and television productions. Over recent years, many, well loved classics such as The Onedin Line, Frenchman’s Creek, Mansfield Park and Rebecca have been filmed there and, with the arrival of Square Sail’s fleet of handsome sailing ships, this part of the port’s economy has continued to thrive. Away from the area around the harbour, Charlestown has all the essential facilities of a self-contained village community, including shops, pubs and a post office and store. At Atishoo Designs, a gallery exhibiting the work of local artists, textile design graduate Liz Hackney, like Rita Kneale, suspects that the recent World Heritage Status award will be extremely beneficial to the people of Charlestown. “Many tourists already come to this part of Cornwall because of the Eden Project and the Lost Gardens of Heligan, then decide to visit Charlestown,” she explained. “But hopefully, the World Heritage award will bring the village to the attention of a much wider audience and increase the number of people coming to Charlestown for its own sake.” At Anna’s Workshop, Gaybriel Mutton has strong, family ties with Charlestown. Her husband was born in the village and many generations of his family have lived there before him. She loves the place and summed up her feelings beautifully when she said: “When I walk around the corner and see the sea each morning, I know that this is what life is all about.” Gaybriel has seen many changes to the community over the last few years and, like Rita Kneale and Liz Hackney, feels that Charlestown has become dependent on tourism for its survival. She also agrees with Robin Davies’s comments about climate change. “We’ve had some spectacular storms and high tides over the last few years,” she said. “They can be quite frightening, but I still love watching them…. they’re part of living in Charlestown.” Gaybriel then went on to tell me about Charlestown’s annual regatta, an event that, depending on tides, is held in July or August each year. “It’s a bit like a carnival,” she said. “We have choirs singing on the harbour and all sorts of other things, including a spectacular firework display.” Although it might not be blessed with the famous, gourmet attractions of somewhere like Padstow, there are still more than enough places in Charlestown to enjoy a quiet drink or a meal and some good, old-fashioned Cornish hospitality. The Rashleigh Arms is the oldest of these, with the Pier House Hotel and Harbour Inn lying further down the hill by the harbour. Despite other local attractions like the Eden Project, The Lost Gardens of Heligan and the Wheal Martyn China Clay Country Park, Charlestown’s captivating setting in the St Austell Bay should not be ignored. The historic village of Pentewan, the remains of the Crinnis cliff-top gun battery and the beach at Porthpean all lie nearby and are well worth a visit. Then there’s Charlestown’s partner in the recent World Heritage award, the Luxulyan Valley; a picturesque area and the place from where Charles Rashleigh originally sourced water to use in the harbour at Charlestown. Standing by the dock gates as the first light of dawn illuminates the distant horizon, it’s not hard to imagine what Charlestown was like in the time of Charles Rashleigh. Yet over the last 200 years, the village’s horizons have changed and, what’s more, are continuing to change. The ships that used to carry locally mined mineral ores and China clay out of the harbour and the once prolific shoals of pilchards are now little more than distant memories. Nevertheless, Charlestown’s residents clearly lack none of the energy and enthusiasm required to take this important part of Cornwall’s heritage into the 21st century and, with care and determination, they will succeed. Useful contacts: The Shipwreck and Heritage Centre: Tel: 01726 69897 www.shipwreckcharlestown.com Square Sail Shipyard Ltd. Tel: 01726 70241 www.square-sail.com Interesting facts: Charlestown’s first dock gates were erected in 1799 and replaced in 1890 and 1971. By 1911 the population of Charlestown had grown to 3,184. Charlestown’s docks were extended in length in 1873. The sea around Charlestown contains China clay particles which give it a striking, turquoise-blue colour. Four of the six bells in St Paul’s Church were donated by Sir Noel Coward. |