The Cornish have preserved many of their rituals and traditions while others have let them fall by the wayside.
Community life still exists in Cornwall and it is buttressed by the annual events that bring people onto the streets and into each other's lives when otherwise work and family might keep them blithely intoverted. Some of the events we class as sports - see the Hurling and the gig racing elsewhere - others are feasts, linked to the saints' days of various towns like St Just and St Day.
The most famous saints day is that of St Piran, the patron saint of tinners and popular replacement for St Michael as patron saint of Cornwall, on March 5.
Other annual events are legion. Few outside this little part of Cornwall are aware of the 'trigging' when limpets and winkles are picked on the shores of the Helford River. Elsewhere Camborne has its Trevithick Day and Redruth its Murdoch Day, Padstow its Obby Oss and Helston its Flora Day.
We have selected a few of the bigger ones for these pages.
Continuing our celebration of the best local produce, we visit The Cheese Shop in Truro for a tasting
Images by Morag Cunningham
Mike and Fiona Freeman bought The Cheese Shop last year out of a real passion for food – and cheese in particular. They stock an impressive range of local cheeses, bread, oils and preserves.
Megan Westley can only offer a layman’s perspective on cheese tasting, though she has been religiously unadventurous until now and may have to be dragged into trying new things.
Village Green
An award-winning goat’s cheese made with 100% goat’s milk and matured for at least six months.
Fiona: This is a good introduction to goat’s cheese for those previously put off by the strong ‘goat’ flavour of others. It is very mild, possibly a little too mild for my personal palate, but hugely popular among our customers and with local restaurants. It grates well and can be used in cooking; this is especially nice in something like quiche. A lot of people wouldn’t even realise they’re eating goat’s cheese.
Megan: This isn’t as strongly ‘goat’ as I had feared and tastes a bit like a cheddar. As I’m not used to eating goat’s cheese, I can still taste the difference with a slight aftertaste of goat’s milk.
Cornish Crumbly
Sue Proudfoot’s accidental creation (discovered while making Trelawney, one of her other cheeses) won Best Modern British Cheese at the British Cheese Awards in 2008.
Megan: As someone a bit fearful of blue or ‘mouldy-looking’ cheeses, I was scared beforehand, expecting this to be really strong because of its thick rind. Actually, it smells nice and is surprisingly mild. This has a tangy flavour that is quite unusual to me.
Fiona: This reminds me of a Welsh Caerphilly, and is also like a Wensleydale in its crumbliness, although the Cornish Crumbly has a citrus flavour from the way the rind is washed.
Sue’s Trelawney
The predecessor to Cornish Crumbly, this is a traditional farmhouse cheese that has been matured for six weeks.
Fiona: The Trelawney is obviously of the same family as Cornish Crumbly; the zesty flavour comes through just as strongly, but this variety is much creamier.
Megan: I actually prefer this ‘older-brother’ to the previous cheese, as though it smells stronger it tastes very similar save for a really pleasant creaminess.
Gevrik
A full-fat goat’s cheese, made by Cornish Country Larder on the North Cornwall coast.
Fiona: Gevrik is a favourite of mine, as I really like the creaminess of it. The riper it gets, the more like Brie it becomes until it is fairly spreadable. This is good for use in cooking and isn’t too overpowering. It would go beautifully with a nice chilled bottle of white wine.
Megan: I like this more than I thought I would, being so wary of goat’s cheese. The goat’s milk flavour is there but it is not unpleasant and I love the smooth, soft texture.
Cornish Olde Smokey
Golden in appearance, Olde Smokey is traditionally wood-smoked over Cornish fruitwoods.
Megan: I have a real love of smoked cheese and this takes me right back to my comfort zone. Some varieties can be too strong on the smoking, but this, to my taste, is just right. I think I’ll have some more!
Mike: It is hard to choose a wine to accompany this as I feel the flavours would compete too much. I’m not personally keen on it; for me, the overriding taste is smoke.
Fiona: Our customers couldn’t get enough of this at Christmas; it was so popular that people would buy enormous half-blocks at a time. I like it but I couldn’t eat as much as I could of some others.
Keltic Gold
The first and only rind-washed cheese in Cornwall; the whole cheese is washed in a local cider which encourages the pink-tinged rind to form.
Mike: The key with this is not to be put off by its smell. It is the rind that smells so strongly, not the cheese itself.
Fiona: Its bark is definitely a lot worse than its bite, and the rind-washing process results in a very different product. If you can get past the smell, it’s lovely.
Megan: In truth, being the cheese philistine that I am, I was dreading having to taste this as it smells so strong. Mike and Fiona are right: this really is deceptive, as the taste is much gentler. The cheese is very creamy, with a strength of taste after a few seconds. I’m still not sure it’s for me, but probably because it’s so different to what I’m used to.
Menallack Vintage
A Cornish cheddar, made in the traditional way and matured for three months or more, from Menallack Farm near Penryn.
Fiona: Though a cheddar, this has a naturally occurring blue vein. A lot of cheddars, if they’re crumbly, are prone to veining.
Mike: The cheese isn’t rodded so there is no blue culture introduced – it’s just a natural thing that happens. Some customers like it, others prefer it not to be veined.
Megan: This is a nice, strong cheddar. I can taste the slight ‘mushroomy’ flavour afterwards, but I don’t actually dislike it like I thought I would.
Our cheese choice
St Laudus
A lesser-known product from Menallack Farm, the St Laudus is an unveined blue cheese, rodded with a blue culture but remaining clear of the usual veins that form.
Fiona: This is very popular and has built up quite a following. It’s not a cheese we were familiar with when we took over the shop and it still remains an undiscovered gem. The particular cheese we’re tasting is still quite young and milder than some; after a few more weeks in the cellar it’d be much stronger. I really like it, but I do like blue cheese.
Megan: I really like this. Blue cheese has been another stumbling block for me, but it tastes like a deliciously strong cheddar. It seems I have found a ‘safe’ blue cheese!
Wherever you are in Cornwall, it’s safe to assume there’s an Easter activity going on near you. Delight young children with an Easter egg trail such as the ones at Boscastle on April 2 and the Lost Gardens of Heligan on April 4. For the adults, an Easter fair showcasing local food and crafts will be held at Gweek Village Hall on April 5.
2. Bank holiday fun
April and May both contain a bank holiday, meaning respite from work and plenty of day-off events to choose from. May 1 sees Padstow come alive with its annual Obby ’Oss celebrations. On May 2 a traditional spring fair will be held at Trereife Park, near Newlyn, while from May 2-3 the Godolphin estate near Helston will host a spring food fair.
3. Bluebell season
By May, many a Cornish view has become carpeted with bright bluebells. Make the most of them while they last: on May 8 Lanhydrock House in Bodmin will hold a Blooming Bluebell Challenge for charity. Enys Garden in Penryn is another often overlooked top spot for the flower.
4. Take a day trip
Cornwall’s towns and villages are full of interesting histories and unique, independent shops. Take advantage of our guides to Bodmin and the Isles of Scilly, or go it alone, pick somewhere you’re not familiar with and get exploring.
5. All hail Helston
One Cornish event not to be missed is Helston’s annual Flora Day on May 8. Thousands amass to watch the famous Furry – or Flora – dance, in which participants weave in and out of shops, houses and gardens. The day’s origins are pre-Christian and mark the passing of winter and coming of spring, seeing the town generously decorated with flowers and greenery.
6. Literary trail
The Daphne du Maurier Literary Festival, running from May 13-22, gets bigger and better each year. A wealth of top names in the arts, from authors and academics to musicians and comedians, descend on the pretty town of Fowey for a series of talks, performances and lectures. Not just one for du Maurier fans.
7. Local theatre
A number of theatre treats are headed our way for April and May. The Minack Theatre is open to the public once again, with new play A Mere Interlude, based on a story by Thomas Hardy, performed from May 24-28. There are many small, lesser-known local theatre companies to take note of, including Carn to Cove, which tours local halls and centres, and Sterts theatre, based at Upton Cross, near Liskeard.
8. Life on the River Fal
The 10-day Fal River Festival, from May 28-June 6, celebrates the people, places and culture associated with this Cornish river. Events range from music, drama and heritage to activities such as walks, triathlons and rowing races. Full details are available at www.kingharryscornwall.co.uk/festival
For more information on all events listed here, turn to our new, extra-large events listings from page 106.
Footage of key local events can often be found at www.mycornwall.tv
